Italy Recap: Amalfi Coast (Part 2 of 3)
AMALFI COAST
(Specifically, Positano & Capri with a dash of Ravello)
*all photos are my own*
Yesterday I wrote about our time in Rome and if you missed it, you can read about it here. It’s where we began our Italian vacation. Upon one last coffee and breakfast in Rome, we returned to our hotel to check out and request an Uber. We headed to the main train station (Roma Termini) about 10 minutes away and hopped on the fast train to Naples, about an hour’s ride south of Rome. At the train station in Naples we were met by our driver from Blacklane and continued on to Positano along the famed SS163. It’s a beautiful, extremely narrow, scenic route known for it’s hairpin curves and world class views! Frankly, it’s the only route to the Amalfi Coast! Blacklane is a service similar to Uber but for the longer routes between cities throughout Italy. Actually, I think they are global but this was our first time to utilize it; so so easy! We will certainly be using Blacklane again! Anyway, the drive was truly spectacular starting with Mount Vesuvius as we headed out of Naples and through all the little coastal towns until we made our way to Positano (about 2 hours). Our driver delivered us to the Hotel Villa Franca which was our home while in Positano. Pete and I chose to spend a week on the Amalfi Coast and divided that time between Positano and the Island of Capri (Isola di Capri).
Our hotel was beautiful and an easy walk to the center of Positano. The hotel smelled beyond amazing and we were sent home with a bottle of their signature fragrance as a parting gift. While we loved our hotel, I would also consider Villa Treville and Il San Pietro di Positano. You can’t go wrong with all three! In total honesty, we would spend all of our time in the future in Capri at La Minerva (more on that to come) and ferry over to Positano. However, if you have never been, we feel time in each is a must as the flavors are so similar, yet so different at the same time. And you know, different strokes for different folks. Again, the food was amazing as per usual. We shopped and spent time relaxing by the pool. One day, we chose to hire a driver for the day (arranged by & billed to our hotel-so easy) and made the trip up the hill to Ravello. Ravello could not have been more charming with it’s 360 degree views of the Amalfi Coast and even looking south towards Sicily!!! We had lunch on the beautiful terrace of the Palazzo Avino and then strolled through the breathtakingly beautiful gardens of Villa Cimbrone. We then did a wine tasting at Wine & Drugs where we proceeded to ship home the best of the best wine along with the most divine oils and vinegars. A must stop in Ravello. Strolling through town, I purchased some beautiful linens at La Bottega dell Arti and some pottery at Pascal. Fun fact, the owner of Pascal’s (an amazing lady I could have spent the afternoon chatting with) biggest customer is from Houston…Johnny Carraba! Go Texas! Anyway, she also has a gorgeous villa available for rent and I have the information if you are interested. Next time, I want to go to Mamma Agata’s Cooking School for a day! And yes dear….you have to come too!!!!
Our last morning in Positano we made the trip to town and took the ferry over to Capri - after breakfast and coffee of course! There are porters that handle your bags up and down the hilly terrain. Don’t worry…they have it down to a science and your bags will be there…I promise. It’s a “thing” in Italy, especially coastal towns and even Venice! It’s about a 30 minute ferry ride and once again, we were met with the porter that handles bags for our hotel there…La Minerva.
Que to trumpets…I CAN NOT say enough about this hotel. It’s a boutique hotel with only about 20 rooms, right in town but with a feeling of being off the beaten path. EVERY SINGLE DETAIL IS TOTAL PERFECTION! La Minerva is run by three brothers and it’s been in their family for three generations now. Honestly, Pete and I have stayed at some of the best hotels out there and this is at the top of my list. The interior design is spot on perfection as well as the service. No detail goes unnoticed. Housekeeping even has darling gray uniforms by day and black by night. Each night returning to your room with turn down service, candle light, music, flowers and little bulletin of the next days activities, weather, etc. And you know how I judge a hotel by bath products…well…these are from Carthusia Profumi di Capri right around the corner. Of course we went and I loaded up on perfume, candles and diffusers! I also had the best massage of my life at La Minerva. Seriously! And because it’s so small, you don’t even have the hassle of having to sign a ticket for drinks…it’s like you are family and it’s just there on your bill when you check out. We had breakfast at the hotel each morning with gorgeous views of the Mediterranean and took their suggestions for dinner. Again…no bad meals…or wine! I honestly could go on and on and on. When you go, tell Marco, Antonino and Luigi hello for me! Needless to say, we won’t be staying anywhere else in Capri…ever. In fact, the closet was large enough that I could just take up residence in our room! Check out my stories for more photos!
What to do in Capri? Visit the Gardens of Augustus, take a trip over to Anacapri, shop along the Via Camerelle, take a boat tour for the day around the island, visit the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra, have the best gelato of your life right in town at R. Buonocore, a delicious limoncello spritz at Say Mozzarella down by the ferry (no doubt he will remember us), cocktails at the Piazzetta, lounge poolside at the hotel, visit the perfume factory Carthusia and so much more. A little island with so much to offer. Pete and I have always felt that St. Barth’s was our little “honey hole” but it’s been replaced by Capri.
What to buy in Capri and Positano? Perfume, driving mocs, sandals, linen, jewelry, art, pottery, linens and anything else your little heart desires!!! I was honestly so so so sad to leave Capri…I was so sad to leave Italy. Good thing I did a post on Post Vacation Blues…upon our return, I needed to reread it myself!
Stay tuned for part three tomorrow…Venice!!!
xo, Melanie